THE tea party came into its own as a social occasion during the Victorian age in Britain and having an elaborate tea set was considered a necessity.

The British brought 'tea culture' here with large quantities consumed by city and country dwellers, the hot climate stimulating thirst. Teamsters, drovers and swagmen stopped by the roadside to boil the billy. This simultaneously killed harmful waterborne bacteria and tea masked the mineral taste of bore water.

Many families ritually stopped for a cup of tea in the morning and afternoon with homemade biscuits and cakes. Little girls were given earthenware tea sets to entertain their dolls and teddies. The best tea service was kept for visitors, who came for tea rather than a sit-down meal.

My mother ‘did’ morning tea for guests wheeling a traymobile from the kitchen which held a large polished-silver tea pot, and her special gold-rimmed floral tea cups, saucers and matching side plates. It was often served on the porch but flies were sometimes a problem. To stop them falling into the milk jug and sugar bowl these were topped with little net covers weighed down with beads. She enquired whether each guest preferred milk or a slice of lemon followed by sugar cubes, if required, dispensed with tongs from the bowl. To avoid an ‘ungainly’ juggling act, low side tables were conveniently placed nearby, while small embroidered serviettes and cake forks kept crumbs at bay.

Serving traditional morning or afternoon tea at home for friends has largely disappeared in favour of catching up for coffee at a café.

However, going out for high tea has recently become popular. Sitting up at tables in an elegantly-decorated room, tea is sipped from genteel Royal Albert cups with finger sandwiches, scones and dainty pastries served on three-tiered cake stands.